A few years back, when ceramic blades first appeared on the market, there was great reluctance by many groomers to purchase them. This has continued, largely due to fear of breaking them and being left with a useless blade having paid the extra for a ceramic one. The introduction of a separate ceramic cutter and the discovery that by replacing your metal cutter with a ceramic cutter, most blunt blades can be restored to working order has totally changed the way ceramic blades are being perceived. The fear of breaking the ceramic has been reduced because, should this happen, simply putting the metal cutter back in place allows continued use of the blade. This technology is still comparatively new and just how long the ceramic stays sharp is not clear, certainly 10 times as long as a metal cutter, maybe even double that. This raises the question as to whether to simply replace the ceramic when blunt or to send it for sharpening. The price charged by sharpening companies will undoubtedly decide this. Cleaning and oiling blades is still an important factor in blade life, together with avoiding cutting dirty coats, especially with dogs that have been on a beach. The quartz in sand particles can blunt a blade instantly. I know it is not always practical but bathing dogs before clipping can save so much wear on your equipment, both blades and clippers.

To replace the metal cutter with a ceramic cutter, simply slide the metal cutter to one side without fully removing from the blade. Insert the ceramic cutter (E) at the opposite side, taking care not to disturb the plastic guide on the spring, and slide the ceramic cutter on to the blade, removing the metal cutter. Your metal cutter, if blunt, can be sent alone for sharpening, and in the event you break your ceramic cutter, it can then be restored to working order.

Once the cutter has been changed to ceramic, in most cases, it will work instantly, even on rusted or blunt blades. Always oil before use and keep a small amount of oil on the running surfaces at all times (METAL or CERAMIC). For perfect results, it is recommend that the cutter teeth should sit between 2 to 3 millimetres below the comb teeth, this can be adjusted easily by slackening the blade screws a couple of turns (DO NOT COMPLETELY UNSCREW).

Move the socket and spring until they are in position and completely straight, then retighten the screws. If you have problems with screws slackening on your blades, a light thread lock can be used to alleviate this. Fingernail hardener is ideal for this purpose.